Ruby Bra Sewalong

I’m so excited to be sharing the wonderful Ruby bra with you!

To kick-off this sewalong I’ve done a couple of videos explaining the sizing and a little bit about suitable materials.  I’m going to make up a full Ruby kit which will include fabrics, foam and findings and I’ll let you know when they are available (hopefully in a few days).  Also a findings kit with fold-over elastic, stay tape and so on.

Ok, so pour yourself a little of what you fancy and let’s get going!

In part two I’ll recap the fabrics etc.  Then we’ll get down to tracing the pattern; laying,cutting and marking out the fabrics.  See you soon!


24 thoughts on “Ruby Bra Sewalong

  1. This is a treat. So much info if you are new to bra making, or brilliant as a re-cap if you have done one of your bra courses( like me).
    Looking forward to the next instalment.
    Certainly interested in a kit, and ordering a pattern together.

    1. Thank you for your video.. I had completely decided not to buy another pattern.. but your video changed my mind.. I just love the way the Ruby is measured.. and haven’t really seen any other patterns measured this way.. makes so much more sense to me

      1. I’m glad you’re enjoying it! I wish I had a pound for every time I’ve decided not to buy any more patterns – or fabric! It is a great sizing system and produces much better results straight out of the envelope. Happy sewing 🙂

  2. Thank you so much for this video. I bought a bra pattern a while ago and did have a go but without success. I’m feeling inspired again. When will the next tutorial be?

  3. Even in my best fitting bra I have a gap between me and the bra wire. Should I measure to the bra wire or to the bottom of the breast. Looking forward to the kit and trying out the pattern

    1. Hi Susan – sounds like the wire is not the right size. I’ll be talking about that later in the sewalong in the troubleshooting section :). Keep the bra on but measure to the natural crease under the breast.

  4. Thanks for your videos. I read on the pattern that if you are doing just a fabric bra that doesn’t have stretch, which I assume is duoplex, we should cut out the next larger size. So normally I’d use 5.5 – I’m assuming I should cut out 5.75? And would it need to be lined as there isn’t really any stretch or will duoplex be okay on it’s own? Thanks for your input.

  5. I am muslining my cups for this pattern. I am very flaccid and large busted and trying to figure out which size to use. I tried a 5.25, but it seemed like it would be too small, so I tried 2 sizes up to the 5.75. I may give this a try. I have a frame that fits pretty well, so I am going to try it with that first. I have been trying to find a pattern that fits me well for 2 1/2 years. If I can get myself fitted, I am hoping to be able to help my mom out soon!

    1. Are you going to try the foam or non-foam version? Be sure to check the wire sizes to match your frame and the bcd you’re going to go with 🙂

      1. My problem is a take a smaller frame and wire than most patterns call for. I have a well fitting Maya frame and I need larger cups. I compared my frame to the Ruby and it matches the 5.0 frame, but I know I will need close to a 5.75 for 6 cup.

        1. You can try raising the Maya frame at the wire line to match the Ruby cup size you need, then taper the top edge of the frame down to the hook & eye line.

  6. Pattern has arrived in the post today. Excited to get started. Glass of wine in hand and catching up on the video posts and reading the instructions. Think I’ll leave measuring till tomorrow – definitely different way of doing this. Looking forward to joining the sewalong x

  7. Mandy, I’m loving your sew-along. Thank you for explaining all the details of the Ruby pattern to us all. Is there an Omega sewing option? I heard there was something different about the sewing lines for this, but don’t see any difference with the sewing lines.

    1. Glad you’re enjoying it Michelle 🙂 As far as I know there is no specific Omega option. No two omegas are alike really and so it would be difficult for a pattern to have this. Because the cups have three seams into the wireline it does lend itself to an Omega alteration quite well. But, as ever, you have to fit your frame to your wire size first of all. The BCD measurement method also makes it easier to fit for an omega I would imagine. Where did you hear that, btw?

  8. Hello, and thank you for this Sewalong!
    Is it possible to make this a longline or would it distort the support/lift?
    Or is it better to use the band from my Classic and use the cups from Ruby?

    1. Glad you’re enjoying it! The straightness of the Ruby band contributes to the lift by not having the curves under the cups, as in the Classic for example. The same effect would happen with a longline because the bottom edge would automatically be straight anyway! So I would just extend the Ruby band to the depth you want. The cup bowl is a slightly different shape to the Classic also, so I wouldn’t really mix n match them personally.

  9. So I’m really curious about using wovens on bras!
    If using the cut and sew foam could you use a woven on the outside? If so would you cut it with direction of stretch with a grainline or would it be cut on the bias? Do you still use the sheer cup lining in the foam version?
    If not using foam, could you use wovens? Would they be cut on the bias? it doesn’t quite make sense if using the sheer cup living that has no give why the outer parts have give or stretch. But yet it does because it would probably feel too constricting? So does a woven have enough give without being cut on the bias or does it need to be cut on a bias?
    The construction makes complete sense☺️It’s the world of figuring out fabrics in bra making that is so confusing to me!!

    1. Certainly I would suggest using wovens on the bias for the cups but you need to line up the bias grain with the DoGS on the pattern. The front frame needs to be stable so I would go with the regular straight grain for that piece. Sheer cup lining is only needed for the frame if using a stretch fabric, like the mirror satin. I don’t use sheer cup lining for the cups with our cut&sew foam. The foam has a certain amount of give and the Ruby patterns has been designed to allow for that. If you use sheer lining you would be fighting against the foam. Also, the foam is covered with a soft fabric and so it feels lovely against the skin as is. If you’re not using foam, it’s recommended that you cut a size bigger and I would also cut a woven on the bias. Hope this helps!

  10. Hi Mandy, so pleased I found this tutorial – fabulous!!! Thank you so much for sharing, I’ve ordered a couple of patterns and will be getting a kit once I’ve checked what I need. Can’t wait for the next installment. Michelle x

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Sign up to our Newsletter